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Jewellery-making in Antiquity


The Mesopotamians and the Egyptians had developed advanced metalworking techniques long before the Greeks, and so it is natural. that the Greeks learned these from them. However, as in other forms of art so in metalworking, the craftsmen selected those elements they wanted and quickly adapted them to their own aesthetic perceptions, creating decorative themes that far outshone the commonplace repetitive designs of the artifacts of the East.
Fig. 1 Gold hair ornament, 200-150 BC (Athens, National Archaeological Museum, ET369).

Ancient Greek jewellery constitutes a characteristic example of this process. Whereas for the Oriental peoples semi-precious stones were structural elements of their jewellery, in Greece emphasis was placed on modelled decoration. The jewellers used gold and silver, as well as baser metals such as copper, lead and iron., to fashion diadems, necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings of unrivalled artistry (figs 1,2,3,4). Jewellery decoration depended on the characteristic traits of each period, moving gradually from simple to complex. In Hellenistic times semi-precious stones began to feature too, which is not fortuitous, since after the campaign of Alexander the Great there was direct contact with the East.